Liquamen
Liquamen est conditura fermentata, in arte coquinaria populorum multorum usitata, praecipue et ab origine e piscibus (vel abiciendis piscium partibus)[1] sale fermentatis, deinde et variatim ex aliis rebus facta. Liquamina crebrissime a coquis in Asia australi et orientali adhibentur aut ad fercula condienda aut ad embammata creanda.
Inter liquamina piscium enumerari debent:
- Garum, Latine saepe "liquamen", a Graecis Romanisque olim usitatum
- Liquamen piscium in Asia austro-orientali Sinisque meridianis factum, Vietnamice nước mắm, Cambodice teuk trei ទឹកត្រី,[2] Malaice kecap ikan et budu, lingua Thai nam pla น้ำปลา,[3] Laotiane nam pa ນ້ຳປາ,[4] Birmanice ngan pyayay ငါးငံပြာရည်,[5] Sinice yúlù 鱼露,[6] Coreane eojang 어장 et aekjeot 액젓,[7] Iaponice gyoshō 魚醤 (inter quae shottsuru しょっつる 塩魚汁, ishiru いしる, ishiri いしり, ikanago-shōyu), lingua Tagalog patis,[8] Anglice apud Srilankenses blood pickle.[9]
- Liquamina densiora in Asia austro-orientali adhibita sunt tai pla et pla ra in Thailandia, padaek in Laotia.
Inter liquamina ex alia materia fermentata enumerare licet:
- Liquamen e piris aevo Romano factum, castimoniale dictum[10]
- Soia e seminibus Glycine max in Sinis septentrionalibus, Corea, Iaponia fermentata
- Doubanjiang vel liquamen fabarum capsicorumque in Suchuen confectum
- Muri(en) in Levante medio aevo factum[11]
Historia[recensere | fontem recensere]
Originem historiamque harum conditurarum haud bene scimus. Garum in fontibus litterariis Graecis satis paucis a saeculo V a.C.n. reperitur. Eodem fere aevo vestigia archaeologica antiquissima fabricationis (ut videtur) salsamentorum et gari recognoscuntur Gadibus ad oram Atlanticum Hispaniae, quae urbs eo tempore emporium Phoenicum, non Graecorum, fuisse censetur. An Phoenices, aut alii, confectionem gari primum invenerint; an Graeci de odore gari Phoenicum, aut aliorum, cantitaverint, non liquet; sed pro certo habemus productionem gari et salsamentorum in Hispania meridiana, tam intra quam extra columnas Herculis, usque ad saeculum II a.C.n. floruisse. Hac regione a Romanis conquisita, industria salsamentorum breve temporis spatium interrupta est, sed saeculo I p.C.n. eisdem fere locis aliisque, insuper in Lusitania et Mauretania, rursus florebat. Intellegere possumus Romanos, imperium possidentes, culturam coquinariamque artem Graecorum imbibentes, garum sicut et alia exotica postulare coepisse.
Garum a Romanis nonnumquam "liquamen" sine pluribus appellatum est. Sic fere semper in libro Apicius De re coquinaria, saeculo fere IV composito, ubi liquamen in omnia fere fercula addere praeceptum est. Haec conditura, secundum fontes litterarios, in Europa occidentali usque in saeculum VIII, in terris imperii Byzantini usque in saeculum XVI usitata est. Deinde omnino oblita est, nisi fortasse supervixit ad oram Propontidis usque in primos annos saeculi XX;[12] nisi colatura de alleculis, nostro tempore in oppido Citaria in Italia celebrata, proneptis esset liquaminis antiqui.[13]
Fontes perpauci de antiquitate liquaminum de piscibus Asiae austro-orientalis nos certiores faciunt. Eis qui de hac re quaerunt fontes antiquissimos de soia (scilicet liquamine Glycinis max) curiose perlegere oportet. Variis indicibus constat Sinas Coreanosque et Iaponenses primi qui soia sicut conditura uti coeperunt liquamina de piscibus iam bene cognovisse. Confectio horum liquaminum etiam hodie reperitur et in his tribus regionibus etiamsi soia maxima pars habet commercii conditurarum huius generis.[14] Sunt qui censent usum soiae in Coream Iaponiamque a monachis Buddhistis ratione castimoniali introductum esse, sed de hac re fontes fideles nobis carent.
Confectio[recensere | fontem recensere]
Liquamen ex omnibus fere speciebus piscium fieri potest, sed eae species praesertim adhibentur quae minus ad edendum utiles sint, bonum fortemque gustum praebeant, magna copia certis anni stationibus capi possunt.[15]
- Liquamen piscium Vietnamense e variis speciebus conficitur inter quas sunt Engraulis spp., Nematalosa nasus, Stolephorus spp., Spratelloides delicatulus, Pellona, Decapterus russelli, Rastrelliger kanagurta, Stromateus, Chirocentrus dorab, Pseudosciaena.[16]
- In Malaesia et Thailandia australis liquamen budu e speciebus Stolephoro commersonii et S. indicus tantum conficitur. Kecap ikan in Malaesia ex aliis variis speciebus conficitur, [17] sed in Indonesia praesertim ex Sardinella spp.[18]
- Liquamen piscium Philippinense e variis speciebus conficitur inter quas sunt Stolephorus commersonii, S. indicus, Sardinella fimbriata, S. longiceps, Decapterus macrosoma, Escualosa thoracata, Rastrelliger brachysoma.[19]
- Liquamen piscium Iaponicum e pluribus speciebus conficitur inter quas sunt Arctoscopus japonicus, Sardinops melanostictus, Engraulis japonicus, Trachurus japonicus, Scomber japonicus et crustaceum Neomysis isaza, sed ikanago-shōyu ex Ammodyte personato,[20] ishiru e Sardinope melanosticto aliisque speciebus,[21] ishiri ex intestinis Todarodis pacifici.[22]
- Garum vel liquamen Graecoromanum e variis speciebus confectum esse censetur, inter quas sunt Engraulis encrasicolus, Trachurus trachurus, Scomber scombrus,Thunnus thynnus, Atherina hepsetus, Mullus, Maena maena.[16] In Italia hodierna colatura de alleculis e specie Engraulide encrasicolo prodit.
Pisces, sale addito, lente fermentantur ope bacteriorum Bacilli spp., Micrococci spp., Staphylococci spp., interdum Halobacterii sp.[23] Liquamen post aliquot menses colligitur. Confectio gari Graecoromani normalis optimique his praeceptis in fonte mediaevali describitur:
- Garum, "liquamen" appellatum, sic fit. Intestina piscium iniiciuntur in vas et saliuntur: parvi item pisciculi, maxime atherinae, aut exigui mulli, aut parvae maenae, aut lycostomi, aut quicunque tandem parvi fuerint, omnes similiter saliuntur, et in sole inveterantur frequenterque versantur. Postquam vero per calorem fuerint inveterati, garum ex ipsi hoc modo tollitur. Cophinus longus densus imponitur in vas plenum praedictorum piscium, influitque garum in cophinum, atque sic per cophinum percolatum liquamen appellatum suscipiunt: reliquum vero retrimentum alex est ...
- Praestantius porro garum haimation appellatum sic fit. Intestina thynni cum branchiis seroque ac sanguine accipiuntur, aspergiturque salis quod satis est, et in vase reponuntur: post menses autem ferme duos vas ipsum perforetur, effluetque garum haimation appellatum.[24]
Usus[recensere | fontem recensere]
Liquamina piscium ad embammata conficienda adhibentur: in Thailandia in embammatibus nam chim (praesertim nam phrik nam pla "embamma e capsico et e liquamine piscium"); simili modo in Cambodia sub nomine generali teuk trei.
Notae[recensere | fontem recensere]
- ↑ Ex piscium "intestinis . . . ceterisque quae abicienda essent": Plinius, Naturalis historia 31.93-95
- ↑ Craig MacKay, Cambodia market study – potential food vehicles for micronutrient fortification. Vasingtoniae: Academy for Educational Development, 2007; Clarisse Vilain et al., "Fish and the Nutrition of Rural Cambodians" in Asian Journal of Agriculture and Food Sciences vol. 4 (2016)
- ↑ Bulan Phithakpol, "Fish Fermentation Technology in Thailand" in Cherl-Ho Lee, Keith H. Steinkraus, P. J. Alan Reilly, edd., Fish Fermentation Technology (Tokii: United Nations University Press, 1993) (pp. 155-166 apud Google Books)
- ↑ Alan Davidson, Fish and Fish Dishes of Laos (Rutland: Tuttle, 1975) p. 104
- ↑ Myo Thant Tyn, "Trends of Fermented Fish Technology in Burma" in Cherl-Ho Lee, Keith H. Steinkraus, P. J. Alan Reilly, edd., Fish Fermentation Technology (Tokii: United Nations University Press, 1993) (pp. 129-154 apud Google Books)
- ↑ Jiang et al. (2007)
- ↑ Lee (1993)
- ↑ Sanchez (2008) p. 408
- ↑ S. Subasinghe, "Fermented Fishery Products in Sri Lanka" in Cherl-Ho Lee, Keith H. Steinkraus, P. J. Alan Reilly, edd., Fish Fermentation Technology (Tokii: United Nations University Press, 1993) (pp. 167-175 apud Google Books)
- ↑ "liquamen ex piris ... liquamen de piris castimoniale": Palladius, Opus agriculturae 3.25.12
- ↑ Iamboninus Cremonensis, Liber de ferculis et condimentis (Anna Martellotti, Il Liber de ferculis di Giambonino da Cremona [Fasano: Schena, 2001]) no. 36; Kanz al-fawāʾid fī tanwīʿ al-mawāʾid (Nawal Nasrallah, interpr., Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table [Lugduni Batavorum: Brill, 2018] pp. 162-164, 168-170); Charles Perry, "Medieval Near Eastern Rotted Condiments" in Tom Jaine, ed., Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 1987: Taste (Londinii: Prospect Books, 1988) pp. 169-177.
- ↑ E. Ehrenbaum, "Über die Seefischerei in den Osmanischen Gewässeren" in Fischerbote voll. 9-10 (1917-1918)
- ↑ Onorati (1818)
- ↑ Lee (1993)
- ↑ Kenneth Ruddle, "The Availability and Supply of Fish for Fermentation in Southeast Asia" in Cherl-Ho Lee, Keith H. Steinkraus, P. J. Alan Reilly, edd., Fish Fermentation Technology (Tokii: United Nations University Press, 1993) (pp. 45-84 apud Google Books)
- ↑ 16.0 16.1 Grimal (1952) p. 32
- ↑ Mohamed Ismail Abdul Karim, "Fermented Fish Products in Malaysia" in Cherl-Ho Lee, Keith H. Steinkraus, P. J. Alan Reilly, edd., Fish Fermentation Technology (Tokii: United Nations University Press, 1993) (pp. 95-106 apud Google Books)
- ↑ Cherl-Ho Lee, Keith H. Steinkraus, P. J. Alan Reilly, edd., Fish Fermentation Technology (Tokii: United Nations University Press, 1993) (pp. 112-114 apud Google Books)
- ↑ Sanchez (2008) p. 410
- ↑ T. Ohshima, A. Giri, "Fish sauce" in Encyclopedia of Food Microbiology (2a ed. 2014) excerptum; Hiroshi Itoh, Hiroshi Tachi, Sayuki Kikuchi, "Fish Fermentation Technology in Japan" in Cherl-Ho Lee, Keith H. Steinkraus, P. J. Alan Reilly, edd., Fish Fermentation Technology (Tokii: United Nations University Press, 1993) (pp. 177-186 apud Google Books)
- ↑ Hiroshi Itoh, Hiroshi Tachi, Sayuki Kikuchi, "Fish Fermentation Technology in Japan" in Cherl-Ho Lee, Keith H. Steinkraus, P. J. Alan Reilly, edd., Fish Fermentation Technology (Tokii: United Nations University Press, 1993) (pp. 177-186 apud Google Books)
- ↑ Grainger (2021) pp. 141-143; T. Kuda, "Quality control and fermentation procedures in fish products" in Wilhelm Holzapfel, ed., Advances in Fermented Foods and Beverages pp. 377-390 (Paginae selectae apud Google Books)
- ↑ Sanchez (2008) p. 414
- ↑ Γάρων ποίησις. Τὸ καλούμενον λικουάμεν οὕτω γίνεται. τὰ ἔγκατα τῶν ἰχθύων βάλλεται εἰς σκεῦος, καὶ ἁλίξεται: καὶ λεπτὰ ὀψαρίδια, μάλιστα δὲ ἀθερίναι, ἤ λεπτὰ τριγλία, ἤ μαινίδια, ἤ λυκόστομοι, ἤ ὁ ἂν δόξῃ λεπτὸν εἶναι, πάντα ὁμοίως ἁλίζεται, καὶ ἐν ἡλίῳ ταριχεύεται πυκνῶς δονούμενα. ὅταν δὲ ταριχευθῇ τῇ θερέᾳ, ἐξ αὐτῶν γάρος οὕτως αἴρεται. κόφινος μακρὸς πυκνὸς ἐντίθεται εἰς τὸ μεστὸν ἀγγεῖον τῶν προειρεμένων ὀψαρίων, καὶ εἰσρεῖ τὸ γάρος εἰς τὸν κόφινον, καὶ οὕτω διὰ τοῦ κοφίνου διηθηθὲν τὸ καλούμενον λικουάμεν ἀναιροῦντα: τὸ δὲ λοιπὸν πάτημα γίνεται ἄλιξ ... · Geoponica 20.46.1-6 (versio Latina Petri Needham)
Bibliographia[recensere | fontem recensere]
- Generalia
- Pierre Grimal, Théodore Monod, "Sur la véritable nature du garum" in Revue des Études Anciennes vol. 54 (1952) pp. 27-38
- Berna Kilinc, "Fish sauce technology" in European Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences vol. 20 (2003) pp. 263–272
- Berna Kilinc et al., "Chemical, microbiological and sensory changes associated with fish sauce processing" in European Food Research and Technology vol. 222 (2006) pp. 604-613
- I. M. Mackie, R. Hardy, G. Hobbs, Fermented fish products. Romae: Food and Agriculture Organization, 1971
- De liquamine Mediterraneo
Si plus cognoscere vis, vide etiam Garum#Bibliographia et Colatura de alleculis#Bibliographia.- A. Carannante et al., "In Search of Garum. The “Colatura d’alici” from the Amalfitan Coast (Campania, Italy): an Heir of the Ancient Mediterranean Fermented Fish Sauces" in F. Lugli, A. A. Stoppiello, S. Biagetti, edd., Atti del 4° Convegno Nazionale di Etnoarcheologia (Roma, 17-19 Maggio 2006) (Oxoniae: Archaeopress, 2011) pp. 69-79
- Robert I. Curtis, Garum and Salsamenta: Production and Commerce in Materia Medica. Lugduni Batavorum: Brill, 1991 (Paginae selectae apud Google Books)
- David Downie, "A Roman Anchovy's Tale" in Gastronomica vol. 3 (2003) pp. 25-28 JSTOR
- Sally Grainger, The Story of Garum: fermented fish sauce and salted fish in the ancient world. Londinii: Routledge, 2021
- Jakob Munk Højte, "The Archaeological Evidence for Fish Processing in the Black Sea Region" in T. Bekker-Nielsen, ed., Ancient fishing and fish-processing in the Black Sea region (Arhusiae, 2004) pp. 133-160
- "Della pescagione e del modo di salare le alici ec. che se pratica da' Cetaresi ..." in Niccola Columella Onorati, Memorie su l'economia campestre e domestica che possono servire di supplemento all'opera Delle cose rustiche pars 2 (Neapoli: dalla tipografia Flautina, 1818) pp. 422-458, praesertim 434-438 Textus
- R. Sanquer, P. Galliou, "Garum, sel et salaisons en Armorique gallo-romaine" in Gallia vol. 70 (1972) pp. 199-223
- A. Trakadas, "The archaeological evidence for fish processing in the Western Mediterranean" in T. Bekker-Nielsen, ed., Ancient fishing and fish-processing in the Black Sea region (Arhusiae, 2004) pp. 47-82
- Robert Zahn, "Garum" in Paulys Real-Enzyklopädie der classischen Altertumswissenschaft edd. G. Wissowa et alii (Stuttgart, 1893-1972 ~ ~) vol. 7 fasc. 1 (1910) coll. 841-849
- De liquamine Asiae australis et orientalis
Si plus cognoscere vis, vide etiam Nuoc-mam#Bibliographia.- K. Amano, "The influence of fermentation on the nutritive value of fish with special reference to fermented fish products of Southeast Asia" in E. Heen, R. Kreuzer, edd., Fish in nutrition (Londinii: Fishing News, 1962) pp. 180–200
- Siddegowda Gopalapura Shivanne Gowda, Bhaskar Narayan, and Shubha Gopal, "Bacteriological properties and health-related biochemical components of fermented fish sauce: An overview" in Food Reviews International vol. 32 (2016) pp. 203-229
- J. Guillerm, L'Industrie du Nuoc-Mam en Indochine. Saigon, 1931
- Jin-Jin Jiang et al., "Chemical and sensory changes associated Yu-lu fermentation process: a traditional Chinese fish sauce[nexus deficit]" in Food Chemistry vol. 104 (2007) pp. 1629-1634
- Sung Woo Lee, "Cultural Aspects of Korean Fermented Fish Products in Southeast Asia" in Cherl-Ho Lee, Keith H. Steinkraus, P. J. Alan Reilly, edd., Fish Fermentation Technology (Tokii: United Nations University Press, 1993) (pp. 33-43 apud Google Books)
- Kenneth Ruddle, Ishige Naomichi, "On the origins, diffusion and cultural context of fermented fish products in Southeast Asia" in James Farrer, ed., Globalization, Food and Social Identities in the Asia Pacific (Tokii: Sophia University Institute of Comparative Culture, 2010) alibi
- "Fish paste (bagoong) and fish sauce (patis)" in Priscilla C. Sanchez, Philippine Fermented Foods: Principles and Technology (Manilae: UP Press, 2008) (pp. 405-439 apud Google Books)
- A. G. van Veen, "Fermented and Dried Seafood Products in Southeast Asia" in Fish As Food (1965) pp. 227-250
- Yuan Mei, Suiyuan shidan, 1796 (Sean J. S. Chen, ed. et interpr., 蝦油 = Shrimp Sauce)
Nexus externi[recensere | fontem recensere]
- Andrew Wilson, Annalisa Marzano, "Fish-breeding, fish-salting and garum production in the Roman world: Bibliography"